Ireland in Eight Days

If you have come across this blog post in planning your own travels to Ireland first let me say, I am so excited for the journey you are about to embark on! I am a seasoned traveler and can say Ireland was one of the most beautiful places I have ever been. Before we get into the day-by-day details, let’s hit the highlights:

What I Packed

• Boots that doubled for hiking and casual looks. I loved these from Target, I threw in some Dr. Scholl’s inserts and they were the most comfortable shoes I’ve ever traveled in. I wore them every day of the trip.
• Wool hiking socks
• Jeans and waterproof hiking pants (really loved these from Amazon)
• Black turtlenecks, they always looks chić and can be dressed up or down
• Raincoat with hood and interior pockets for holding your phone (mine I have had from Lululemon for years, it’s a workhorse)
• A casual day puffer-coat and a dressier evening coat (the weather could get quite cold if it was raining, so definitely come prepared with a coat – even in August!)
• One pair of heels that went with my evening coat that could work with multiple looks (dinner dress, black pants, jeans, etc.)
• Layers, layers, layers (weather is VERY unpredictable so pack your patience and a flexible wardrobe!)

Where We Stayed (links included)

• Kilkea Castle-, Casteldermot – 2 nights, a magical place
• The Moorings Guesthouse, Portmagee – 1 night,  we slept in Mark Hamill’s room!
• Airbnb, Doolin – 1 night, perfect spot for sightseeing
• The Glasshouse Hotel, Sligo – 1 night, it was fine but nothing special
• Airbnb, Armoy – 2 nights, wish it had been 3, so MAGICAL
• The Shelbourne – 2 nights, classic 5 Star hotel (we stayed on points)

The best food and pubs we loved (links included)

• Restaurant 1180, Kilkea Castle
• Hotel Bar, Kilkea Castle (ask for Andrew, favorite bartended of the trip)
• Smugglers Cafe, Portmagee
• The Little Cheese Shop, Dingle
• Harbour Bistro, Portrush (BEST MEAL OF THE TRIP!)
• Coach Lane, Sligo
• The Stag’s Head, Dublin

Day One: Right off the plane, we found the magic of Wicklow…

We bought a few books about Ireland for the trip and frankly only used one and highly, HIGHLY recommend you buy it if you are driving. It’s called Back Roads of Ireland (click here to purchase on Amazon). We used this book as our guide to driving the country, which ensured we saw all of the natural beauty and none of the highway tour buses.

Straight from the overnight flight, we got into our car and started exploring – running off pure adrenaline. Heading south of Dublin we found Wicklow. Guys, we stopped here and took this photo and there was literally no one around for miles. We couldn’t see or hear anything but nature during this entire drive, it was INCREDIBLE. We started the trip on such a high and fell head over heels for Wicklow.

Day One: Kilkea 

When booking this trip our number one priority was to stay in a castle. It was difficult to make reservations in August because it is prime wedding season in Ireland, so many were booked – BUT I am SO so glad we found Kilkea Castle in Castledermot. Our room was on the top floor of the castle with operable windows. We had views of the towers and turrets and it was seriously so quiet – we slept with the windows open one night to enjoy the crisp night air. Andrew was our favorite bartender, he felt like an old friend by the time we left. Dinner in the restaurant was wonderful and the grounds make for a stellar photo op. I highly recommend a stay at Kilkea.

Day Two: Rock of Cashel and Kilkenney

We took a day trip from Kilkea to the Rock of Cashel – it was the most gorgeous weather. The views from the Rock are lovely but honestly my favorite part was walking the hidden path down to the ruins about a half mile below in the valley. You can climb and explore the ruins freely, there were only a few other people nearby so we almost felt transported. We did stop off in Kilkenney on the way back to the castle, but we were way unimpressed. There was one charming alley we went down and had a pint in but overall we could have definitely skipped Kilkenney.

Day Three: Jameson Tour at the Midelton Distillery 

We wanted to do one distillery tour while in Ireland, and after researching them all, the Jameson Midelton Distillery had the best reviews by far. It is located in a charming little town called Midelton (of course). We street parked outside of a cafe, had a bit of lunch, then walked up for an afternoon tour. While not Jameson fans, we loved learning the history of the company and the people who worked to build it. Midelton makes much more than your college-level Jameson, our favorite being Barry Crockett’s Very Rare Legacy Whiskey. At $250 a bottle, it is not cheap but so worth it. Highly recommend this tour.

Day Three Continued: Kissing the Blarney Stone

Guys – every book and blog I read before this trip basically said ‘Don’t waste your time at Blarney Castle. ‘ and to those writers I say – YOU WERE SO WRONG! This was honestly one of our favorite experiences of the entire trip.

We arrived at Blarney Castle towards the end of the day, maybe 90 minutes before they closed. It was gorgeous weather and the grounds were empty. The castle itself is magical and the gardens are something out of a story book. I honestly wish we could have spent more time there. We climbed the castle without any sort of line. Definitely keep in mind, this climb is not for the faint hearted – it’s a very tiny spiral staircase that results in one hell of a cardiovascular workout. Once you get to the top there is a lovely, burly Irish man waiting at the stone to hold you while you kiss it. Maybe it was just my own ignorance, but I had NO IDEA you had to be held upside down 100 feet in the air to kiss this thing. It was honestly, pretty damn scary. There was a guy in front of us about 45 years old who totally wimped out after looking down. If you are afraid of heights, this is probably not for you.

After we kissed the stone and explored the castle, we took a walk through the Poison Garden which was so interesting! Again, I wish we had more time.

Day Four: The Charm of Portmagee, Missing Skellig Michael, an Unexpected Hike

Our next overnight stay was in the tiny fishing village of Portmagee. It’s a row of about 15 buildings with three restaurants, one pub, and no ATM. Many people asked us, why Portmagee? Most of the locals we talked to about our trip had never even heard of this tiny place, but it was a must on our list.

From Portmagee you can take a boat out to Skelling Michael – a towering sea crag only reached by boat that is an incredible hike. Many people (my husband included) also know it from the closing scenes of Star Wars ‘The Force Awakens’. The inn we stayed at (above the pub) was where most of the cast stayed while filming. We actually slept in Mark Hamill’s room and my husband was geeking out! The owner of the inn (and pub and restaurant) was warm and lovely, we talked with him over a pint in the pub. This honestly felt like an authentic Irish Pub experience – there were families there, young and old, dancing Irish gigs and tossing back pints with laughter. We felt at home.

The next morning our boat out to Skellig Michael was unfortunately cancelled due to rough seas (statistically, you only have a 50/50 shot of getting out to the island based on weather conditions). We were bummed but not deterred! We talked to our waitress and found out there was a really nice hike close by that allowed us to see Skellig Michael from the top. This hike, known as Bray Head, was MAGICAL. Once at the top, we felt like we were at the edge of the world. Deep blue ocean waves crashed below us on three sides while Skellig Michael lay in the distance. This was one of our favorite moments of the trip. These photos really don’t do it justice, head over to my IG Stories for videos that give you a better sense of the magic.

Day Four Continued: Dingle…for the food

After our morning hike we had a day of driving ahead, we drove the Ring of Kerry and the Ring of Dingle with some amazing views. The little town of Dingle was definitely a point of destination for us as it is known as a foodie haven on the west coast of Ireland. If you have the time, stop and eat everything you can. Our best takeaway from Dingle was The Little Cheese Shop where we bought cheese and meats to make a charcuterie plate for dinner later that night. We grabbed a baguette from the bakery next door and some smoked salmon in a little town later on in our drive.

Day Five: The Cliffs of Moher

The Cliffs of Moher have been on my bucket list for a long time, and finding a place to stay nearby was not easy. We ended up booking a charming little Airbnb in the town of Doolin, which was just 10 minutes south of the Cliffs. It had a lovely skylight with sunset views over the ocean, I included the link at the top of the post and would highly recommend it for a stay.

After a great nights sleep, we checked out of our Airbnb and headed up to the Cliffs. You need to pay to park but not to access the Cliffs themselves. The weather was unpredictable, in typical Ireland fashion. At one point the wind and rain was so bad we literally had to hunker down against the only wall we could find to not get blown over.

The Cliffs of Moher are no joke, people die there every year trying to get the perfect selfie. Go prepared with the proper footwear and gear and basically don’t be an idiot. A mudslide can happen at any moment so walking around in sneakers is so not safe! After the crazy weather passed, we enjoyed gorgeous sun and calm winds as we hiked south away from the Visitors Center on to the ‘unofficial path’, which is defined by barbed-wire for a cow field on one side and the Cliffs edge on the other.

Day Four Continued: Stopover in Sligo

We had a little hiccup in our travels which resulted in an impromptu overnight in Sligo. However, this is the beauty of travel. We ended up at a local pub which had great live music at midnight on a Sunday (hit up my story highlights on Instagram). These were the nights that felt like we were in the real Ireland, not some tourist trap. After more pints than we could count, we stumbled back to our hotel. The next morning we grabbed some ridiculously good craft coffee then hit the road, driving through the homeland of WB Yeats on our way to Northern Ireland.

Day Five and Six: Armoy and the Mystic Land of Northern Ireland

Welcome to probably my favorite few days of the entire trip. Our Airbnb was out of a storybook and if you are Game of Thrones fan I mean, well, welcome to heaven. The majority of the show was filmed here and you can tell why. The land is full of magic and mystery and feels relatively untouched for the 21st century.

All of the best sites to see in Northern Ireland are relatively close to each other, within 30 minutes or so, which was a vast improvement on the hours between stops in the Republic of Ireland. On my bucket list were The Giant’s Causeway, The Dark Hedges, and The Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge. We found the most charming Airbnb in a little town called Armoy. The place was huge, really way too big for the two of us, but it was lovely to spread out and enjoy cooking in the kitchen and cozying up by the fire.

A few tips for exploring the sites in Northern Ireland – hit the Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge first thing. It’s a relatively quick experience (very organized as they only let so many people cross at a time) then head up to The Giant’s Causeway. Be warned that parking is basically impossible at The Giant’s Causeway in the afternoon. I would highly recommend you get there before lunch. We spent probably two hours at The Giant’s Causeway, it’s a decent hike down to the rocks and once you’re down there you really don’t want to leave.

We tried to hit The Dark Hedges during the day and that was a disaster. Literally go at 6am or right before sunset. Anytime between 9am-7pm there are so many tourists you can’t enjoy the beauty of this place. We came back at 8:30pm (right before sunset), and had the entire road to ourselves. We took a million photos, walked the length of the road and back, then had a pint at the pub across the road. Our bartender was a third generation local and told us the ghost stories of the The Dark Hedges. We were so spooked we decided to go back after the pub at midnight. I was legit scared out of my mind, but it was so fun! A memory we surely won’t forget.

Now, to get serious, the BEST MEAL we had of the entire trip (and honestly one of the best I’ve ever had period) was at the Harbour Bistro in Portrush. Go early or make a reservation but trust me, it’s worth it. They have Filet Mignon ON THE BONE guys, on the bone. Go enjoy and thank me later (also, hit up my Instagram stories).

Day Seven: Dublin, and of course, Guinness 

After sleeping in and soaking up our glorious Airbnb, we hit the road for Dublin. We dropped our car back at the airport then took a taxi into town. We checked into The Shelbourne which was a stunning hotel. They are known for their high tea service, which we did not do, but looking back I would have loved to.

That afternoon we had booked tickets online for a tour of the Guinness factory because, when in Dublin – right? I have to say this destination is SO overrated. They don’t actually tour you, they send you on a cheezy self-guided tour that feels like their only goal is to sell you merchandise in the Disneyland-sized gift shop. The two highlights that would make this worth it for me were one, touring the advertising section. It was delightful! Two, being able to pour our own Guinness on tap. If you are going to Dublin you will probably end up at the Guinness Storehouse, just know what you’re getting yourself into.

Day Seven Continued: Pubs, all the pubs…

We drank, we drank, we drank too much. Beer, whiskey, more beer, more whiskey. Our favorite pub was The Stag’s Head (link at top of post). It’s beautiful inside but I have no photos because, well, I was tossed.

Day Eight: Dublin Site-Seeing, The Long Room at The Old Library at Trinity College

While experiencing a lovely hangover, we had to get up early to make our entry time for The Long Room at The Old Library at Trinity College. This room has been on my bucket list. I love books, I love architecture, I love history, and I love Irish writers. This room was like heaven to me. It was packed but absolutely worth it. Definitely book tickets in advance and go early in the day.

Day Eight Continued: Kilmainham Gaol and the Last Meal 

If you want to see Kilmainham Goal (a former prison where many Irish revolutionaries, including the leaders of the 1916 Easter Rising, were imprisoned and executed in the prison by the British) book your tickets EARLY. This tour sells out and for good reason, it was excellent. I knew very little about the Easter Rising until this tour. Our guide was amazing, she did such an incredible job telling the story of this place and what transpired here. The prison is far from the other Dublin sites, so give yourself plenty of time to get there in a cab.

Day Eight Continued: And then we found steak tartare

After a big day of site-seeing we settled on a French restaurant for dinner, La Maison, which was lovely. We sat on the patio, drank a bottle of wine, ate steak tartare, and watched the youth of Dublin gather outside the adjoining pubs – filling the streets with music, laughter, and joy. It was the perfect end to the perfect trip.

Last but not least, how I edited my photos for posting

If you visit my Instagram page you will find I have a very specific aesthetic, especially when it comes to fonts and framing an image. Every photo I took in Ireland, both that you see here in this post and on my Instagram Stories, I took on my iPhone. No fancy cameras or lenses, just my phone.

First, I typically edit the photo in the Color Story app. This helps me bring out the right tones in the image, which is so important with the landscape of Ireland. I may additionally dial the contrast up or down in the iPhone photos app or sharpen and/or brighten if needed.

If I layered a photo with text in a story, it’s a multi-step process.

1. I edit the image for color and detail
2. I curate the text in Word Swag
3. I crop the image in the Photoshop app so it has crisp corners when layering it in an Instagram story (if you load a photo straight into IG, it has rounded corners)
4. I start with the Word Swag file as my base in the IG story
5. I layer in the edited and cropped photo

Any questions, feel free to give me a shout in the comment section below.

Cheers! Or as they say in Ireland, Sláinte!

S.